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Medieval Village Crates and Barrels Part 2

This is the second part of the tutorial on how to sculpt and cast the miniature barrels and crates for the medieval village.

You can visit part 1 here

 

Rap to remove bubbles

Ok, the molds have been filled with the liquid rubber. Now we have to minimize air bubbles that can show up on the part. We do this by sharply rapping on the table. At least 100 times. This loosens any air bubbles attached to the part and brings them up to the surface. You will see them rise up and slowly pop.

 

Remove the model  once dried

Once the rubber has cured. Typically six hours. You can gently remove the part from the mold.

 

The molds

Now you have a mold of the part. In this case I have two molds; one of the crate and one of the barrel. We can use these molds to make as many copies as we like.

 

Next we will be pouring the liquid plastic into these molds to make our plastic parts.

Mix the two parts of the liqud plastic

I use OOMOO Plastic. It comes in two containers. You simply mix equal parts in a container and stir it up gently. We stir it gently so as not to make too many bubbles in it. OOMOO

Here is the plastic casting stuff. Smooth-On Smooth-Cast 300 Liquid Plastic Compound Smooth-Cast 300

 

This kit has both the plastic and the rubber:

Moldmaking kit

Moldmaking & Casting Pourable Starter Kit - Mold rubber can be used to capture exact detail from any model. This starter kit will allow you to make a rubber mold of a small, simple 2 or 3 dimensional model using silicone rubber. Then pour our fast cast plastic to make one or more reproductions of the original. If you are an absolute beginner to casting then you might want to consider getting this kit. I have more supplies and options on my casting miniatures supplies page

 

Pour the plastic

Ok, gently and slowly pour the plastic into the molds. Use a thin stream and be sure to fill all the nooks and crannies. And just like as in the rubber we rap on the table a hundred times to raise up all the bubbles and get them out of the piece. This plastic is not like the rubber in one respect. This will be hardened and done in ten minutes. So, work efficiently.

Remove the part once cured

Ok! That's it. Once it is dried you can gently remove that part from the mold. The part is ready to be painted and the mold is ready to have another part cast into it. This mold should hold up very well for lots and lots of castings.

Paint the part

Painting - This is pretty straight forward for these miniatures. I simply painted the whole objects with a coat of brown. When the brown paint was almost dry I washed over the whole thing with a very wet black. This causes the black to sink into the cracks of the lumber. It gives it really good definition.

The barrels are done and in place

And there we go. Three barrels and three crates alongside one of the buildings of the medieval village.

 


Casting Metal Minis

A look at casting metal miniatures. Some ideas and thoughts with a video showing me casting some miniatures in metal. Casting Metal Miniatures

Miniature Lizard Army

How to make a miniature army (I make lizard warriors) I show you the complete process from start with an idea and a drawing to making a whole bunch of them (as many as you want), This is an overview that explains all the steps including, wire armature, sculpting the master, making the rubber mold, and making all the miniatures. How to make a miniature army

 

Will's Book

Check out my book on how to make fantasy and medieval dioramas. I put all my best techniques and tricks in this book!

How to make Fantasy and Medieval Dioramas

 

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